Jewelry Definitions

Earthstone Inspirations is a firm believer in consumer information; after all, it is said that "knowledge is power." Herewith is a list of terms you may see within an item's definitions that may help you in your decision making process. Understanding techniques and terms used in the crafting of jewelry is important not only for the appreciation of any piece but to shine light on how oftentimes, it is a particular technique itself and the time required to perform that technique that drives the price. This list is intended to be dynamic and it will be updated periodically. And, as always, we welcome all questions and may be reached at EarthstoneInspirations@gmail.com.

Jewelry Definitions

Briolette: A briolette is usually a tear or pear shape cut stone or crystal with holes that are drilled from side to side rather than front to back. They require a special bail (the piece that holds the gem and becomes the connection point to the focal or pendant) or wiring in order to be suspended from a chain, wire or other stringing material.

Fire-polish: Also known as "aurora borealis" (Northern Lights) or "AB," crystals described as such mean that they've been treated with an iridescent finish on certain facets that allows light to reflect back the many colors chosen in this technique. The Swarovski Company discovered this technique in 1955 with Christian Dior and anyone who has seen their brilliance and clarity understands why they remain the industry leader. AB can appear as AB x 2 and may be preferred when designers are looking for even more glitz and glamour for a particular design.

Chain maille: This style of jewelry chain could not exist without the humble little jump ring and can be as simple as a 2+1 repetition or as an elaborate of a weave that an artist can dream up. The techniques were used in Great Britain to fashion armor in the days of knights and warrior kings on a much larger scale but there is a long history of its use in the Far East as well. The designs may stand alone or feature crystals or gemstones too.

"Look deep into nature, and then you will understand everything better. "

Albert Einstein

.925 Sterling Silver - In order for silver to legally qualify as "sterling," 92.5% of the precious metal must be contained within the presentation whether it be wire, a charm, earrings, etc. with 7.5% of it copper or brass added which makes sterling silver an alloy. There is no such thing as "pure" silver but there is what is known as "fine" silver - a mix of 99:1% which though more "pure," its softness limits its use in various applications. Sterling silver is considered a precious metal.

Gold-filled wire: This is the next best thing to 14K gold in terms of durability and price and very difficult to differentiate between the two. It starts off as a hollow tube of either 14K or 12K gold which is then filled, most often, with a metal like pure jeweler's brass. The two elements are then fused to create an inseparable bond and when properly cared for, will last a lifetime!

Findings: This is a collective term used to describe what could be thought of as the "nuts and bolts" of jewelry making - it may refer to things like crimp beads and covers, clasps, head pins, eye pins and jump rings - all the things necessary as supporting players within the larger design of any jewelry piece.

Toggle Clasp: This style of clasp consists of a frame that can be round, square or multi-shaped and is secured with a pin-like, usually straight or slightly curved matching metal component that is threaded through and lies across and beyond the outside perimeter of the frame portion.

Jump (or "o") rings: These little circles are the backbone of most jewelry designs - they can be the second half of a lobster claw or spring clasp, the connection between the beginning and end of a chain to its clasp, the connectors between components and can even become the chain itself!

Bicone: "Bi-cone" - exactly as it implies - refers to a specific cut, usually a crystal, where it appears as though two cone shapes were placed side by side with the larger end of the cone placed flush to one another.

Cabochon: This is exactly what a faceted stone is not! Cabochons are stones with a rounded surface slightly domed and usually flat-backed. You'll find them most appealing when the stone bears translucency because of the way they disperse light. One idiosyncratic exception in qualifying as a cabochon is the January birthstone, garnet. When featured as a cabochon, it is properly termed "carbuncle."

Choker: A choker necklace hopefully does not do as its name suggests but is called so because its typically 15-16 inches in length and encircles the base of the neck.

Cloisonne: This technique originated in the Far East and can be seen not only in jewelry but in art objects such as vases and ornamental tea sets. Once the design is completed with metals, colored enamel is heated within the walls of the design to form the piece which produces its characteristic look.

Filigree: This technique is created when higher gauge wires are intricately woven into "scrolly-looking" patterns that may be free-form or sculpted into flowers, circular or vine-like designs and are quite delicate in appearance.

icone: "Bi-cone" - exactly as it implies - refers to a specific cut, usually a crystal, where it appears as though two cone shapes were placed side by side with the larger end of the cone placed flush to one another.